【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

原标题:【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

Read Wenlin Street,

read half of Kunming

了解一座城的视角很多,地标、人物、特产、美食,还有脚下的大街小巷,随着时光的堆积,街巷似乎成了回到过去的通道。

There are many perspectives to understand a city: landmarks, people, specialties, food, as well as the streets and alleys underneath the feet, and with the accumulation of time, the streets and alleys seem to become a channel back to the past.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

昆明,这座历史文化名城,有太多上了年岁的老街,它们如同筋脉一般,千百年来在人们生活的土地上流淌。

Kunming, this historical and cultural city, has too many old streets, they are like tendons and veins that have been flowing in the land where people live for thousands of years.

而文林街,这条曾经曲折的小路,似乎就有这种时光轮回的感觉。

And Wenlin Street, this once winding path, seems to have this sense of time reincarnation.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

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【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

文林街,西起一二一大街,东延至翠湖北路,长度700余米。将名气更盛的钱局街、文化巷拦腰截断,串起先生坡、天君殿巷、小吉坡等一众小巷。

Wenlin Street, starting from one two one street in the west and extending to Cuihu North Road in the east, is more than 700 meters long. It cuts off the more famous Qianju Street and Culture Lane, and strings together a number of alleys such as Xianshengpo, Tianjundian Lane and Xiaojipo.

明清时期,这只是一条小土路,因地近贡院(今云南大学址),是科举考生云集之地,取“文人如林”之意,故称为“文林街”。

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, this was just a small dirt road, but it was called "Wenlin Street" because it was near the Gongyuan (the site of Yunnan University today), a place where candidates for the imperial examinations gathered and took the meaning of "literati like a forest".

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

文人如林忆史诗

Literati like a forest remembers the epic poem

那个年代,车、马、邮件都很慢,在文化巷与文林街的生活也很慢。

In those days, cars, horses, and mail were slow, and life on Culture Lane and Wenlin Street was also slow.

那个年代,敌机从头顶飞过,炸弹落在院中,文化巷与文林街亦成了当时国家最后的文化命脉。

In those days, enemy planes flew overhead and bombs fell in the courtyard, and Culture Lane and Wenlin Street became the last cultural lifeline of the country at that time.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

历史跌跌宕宕,那是汇聚高光的西南联大时代,饭馆、米线馆、茶馆等便利设施集中的文林街,变成了联大学生们心爱的落脚地。

History stumbled, and it was the era of the Southwest United University that brought together the high lights, and Wenlin Street, where restaurants, rice noodle shops, teahouses and other convenient facilities were concentrated, became the beloved place for the students of the United University.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

平日在文林街上租房子住,考试季抢不到校园内的图书馆座位,就跑来文林街上的茶馆自习。“天不亮便拥着等开门,门一开,蜂拥而入”,茶馆密布的文林街,俨然成为联大学生们的“第二自习室”。

In normal days if you rent a house on Wenlin Street, you can't grab a library seat on campus during the exam season, so you can come to the teahouse on Wenlin Street to study. "At dawn the crowd will be waiting for the door to open. Once the door is open, they swarmed in”. The teahouse-dense Wenlin Street seems to have become a "second study room" for the students of the United Nations.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

除却学生的文书自习,文林街一带还居住过众多文人名家,有时任联大教授的钱钟书、沈从文、罗廷光,云南经正书院的掌堂陈荣昌,全国经济特科状元袁嘉谷等。

In addition to the studying students, the area of Wenlin Street was also inhabited by many famous literati, including Qian Zhongshu, Shen Congwen and Luo Tingguang, who were professors at the time, Chen Rongchang, the head of Yunnan Jingzheng College, and Yuan Jiagu, who was the top student in the national economic specialties.

还有老舍、金岳霖等文化名人也曾在沈从文的邀请下造访,在一座小楼里谈论着小说、戏剧和哲学。

There were also cultural celebrities such as Lao She and Jin Yuelin who visited at the invitation of Shen Congwen and talked about novels, drama and philosophy in a small building.

.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

可是,在那个烽火战乱的时代,无论教授还是学生,日子都过得异常清贫。彼时,学生们多在文林街的店铺里勤工俭学,教授们也要放下教书先生的身段在外面营生以补贴家用。

However, in those times of beacon fire and war, both professors and students lived in abnormally poor conditions. At that time, students mostly worked and studied in the stores on Wenlin Street, and professors also had to put down their teaching stature to make a living outside to subsidize their families.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

然而,艰苦、清寒的生活并没有让联大的师生们胆怯,他们教育救国的信念也从不曾动摇,居住于文林街的文人精神更是浪漫至极。

However, the hard and humble life did not discourage the teachers and students of the University, and their belief in education for national salvation never wavered. The spirit of the literati living in Wenlin Street was even more romantic.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

如今小资代名词

Nowadays, it is a synonym of petty bourgeoisie

“六十余载匆匆过去,西南联大早已成为历史陈迹。随着时代的发展,曾经布满文林街的茶馆也渐渐消失了,茶馆文化却保留了下来。作为昆明酒吧最早兴起的街道,文林街至今仍然是附近学生谈天论地的场所。”

More than sixty years have passed in a hurry, and Southwest United University has become a historical relic long ago. With the development of the times, the teahouses once covering the Wenlin Street also gradually disappeared, but the teahouse culture has been preserved. As the earliest street where bars sprang up in Kunming, Wenlin Street is still a place for nearby students to talk about the world. 

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

如今,咖啡店、西餐厅、洋酒吧林立……文林街延续着旧时茶馆文化的余脉。逗留于此的,半是本地青年,半是远方游客。

Today, coffee shops, Western restaurants, foreign wine bars ...... Wenlin Street continues the remnants of the old teahouse culture. Half of those who stay here are local youths and half are tourists from afar.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

在这条小道上漫步,仍能感受到百年前的文人风骨,微风吹动树叶簌簌作响时,还能看见往日的大家,在这条路上的某家茶馆内阅读的模样。

Strolling along this lane, you can still feel the literati spirit of a century ago, and when the breeze rustles the leaves, you can still see everyone from the past, reading in one of the teahouses on this road.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

今天的文林街,不仅是小资的代名词,还成了旅游小册子和杂志旅游专栏里推荐的昆明必游之地。

Today, Wenlin Street is not only synonymous with petty bourgeoisie, but has also become a must-see place in Kunming as recommended in travel brochures and magazine travel columns.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

胡九小吃、豆香园、印象阁、萨尔瓦多咖啡馆、昆明往事、布拉格等数十家中西餐馆、咖啡厅、酒吧和个性小店都纷纷登上推荐打卡榜单。

Dozens of Chinese and Western restaurants, cafes, bars and individual stores such as Hujiu Snack, Douxiang Garden, Impression Court, Salvador Café, Kunming Past, and Prague have all made their way onto the recommended hit list.

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

【春城秀】读懂文林街,读懂大半个昆明

文林街,似乎永远也不会老去,它就这样文艺而又市井地栖息在翠湖湖畔,为昆明注入着柔软的时光,它更像是一本书,似乎读懂了它,就读懂了大半个昆明。

For Wenlin Street, it seems that it will never get old. It is perched on the shore of Cuihu Lake in such a literary and urban way, injecting soft time into Kunming, and it is more like a book, which seems that if you read it, you can read half of Kunming.

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